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Post subject: Stud Extractor
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dbanbery  Powerband Master Joined: 23 Feb 2007 Total posts: 542 Location: Cleckhuddersfax [Huddersfield] |
so last night i removed most of my studs. out of 8 6 came out fine.
However, one the thread knackered when i was using the "two nut method" and the other snapped.. there is plenty of this one still there as it only snapped at the top thread.
both will hopefully be removable with an extractor, but which one should i use? i've tried the eccentric cam one before and it ended up not working. i have seen socket stud removers and thought that they would be a good shout, however i dont want to buy them if they are going to be useless.
i've been told to either buy an air gun and impact stud remover or get someone with one of these to do it. and also been told to not use the impact stud remover with an impact drive due to "fragile cases"
whats everyones take on this? what do people do who dont take their bottom end to a specialist for this sorting?
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:42 am
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1966Powerband Master Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Total posts: 599 Location: Pig on the wall country |
I had the same problem with my crankcase stud but it snapped flush with the gasket face 
I tried a stud extractor/easy out and snapped that,so now the broken bit was embedded in the snapped stud  
I ended up having it Spark Eroded out which sorted it and left the threads still good.
I was also told i should have used heat around the studs before attempting to undo them
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:10 am
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dbanberyPowerband Master Joined: 23 Feb 2007 Total posts: 542 Location: Cleckhuddersfax [Huddersfield] |
i didnt use heat, just releasing oil..i'll prob get the socket type stud extractors and get them out using a bit of heat then.
what is spark eroding?
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:28 pm
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jante350 RD/RZ Jedi Master Joined: 05 Aug 2003 Total posts: 5123 Location: Bergen, Norway |
Heres a nice tip wich I use everytime with great success:
Find a small socket that fits over the bolt, wich has a hole through it, use this hole to center a drillbit so you can bore a small hole into the center of the bolt. If the bolt is 8mm make the hole about 4mm. Then tap in a torx bit that is slightly bigger, like 4mm into the hole. It must not be too big, cause then it can put too much pressure on the bolt and make it expand into the threads and lock up. Tap the bit in as far as possible and use a wrench on the bit to undo the bolt. Works a treat everytime if done properly!
If the stud is stuck very hard, heat up the bolt and let it cool off before you try this (heat till its glowing, be careful with the aluminium surrounding it).
Good luck!
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:36 pm
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kookimonsta Rear-wheel Steering! Joined: 16 Dec 2003 Total posts: 2627 Location: Wolverhampton, West Mids, UK |
dave i think i have the socket extractors somewhere, there not the best things to use but if you want ago then i'll try and find them.
still recon you take em to pj's
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 5:43 pm
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dbanberyPowerband Master Joined: 23 Feb 2007 Total posts: 542 Location: Cleckhuddersfax [Huddersfield] |
jante good idea! however my studs are still mostly together. might give it a go though for a laugh on the broke one.
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 6:04 pm
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NickIronsPowerband Master Location: Bienne Switzerland |
I've said it before and I'll say it again, Spark Erosion!!
Saw the stud off as near to the case as possible without
damaging it and get it sparked out. Sparking is electronic
discharge machining, basically you turn/mill up a copper
electrode to the size/shape of the material you want to
remove and in a bath of kerosine type fluid, the electrode
basically shorts a current onto the part to be removed and
destroys it. The advanage is there is no working pressure
or heat so nothing gets bent up or distorted, 100% guaranteed
results 100% of the time, tried and tested and the best and
only way IMHO.
Just ask 1966!!!
ATB.
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 7:51 pm
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dbanberyPowerband Master Joined: 23 Feb 2007 Total posts: 542 Location: Cleckhuddersfax [Huddersfield] |
Cool.
££££££££££££££££?
i dont know who does it either?
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 8:16 pm
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| JennyC Got the Powerband! Joined: 11 Jun 2007 Total posts: 8 |
weld a nut on to the remaining studd and unscrew it straight away
the heat will have freed it off
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 8:33 pm
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NickIronsPowerband Master Location: Bienne Switzerland |
| dbanbery wrote: |
Cool.
££££££££££££££££?
i dont know who does it either? |
I reckon about £30 quid, just look up Toolmakers/Spark Eroders
in the Yellow Pages, you're in Yorkshire so I'd start with Sheffield
if that ain't to far from you. No disrespect to the other replies
posted, but I wouldn't consider welding stuff, or heating things,
stud extractors, drilling out etc, sparking is 100% guaranteed.
The other methods may well work out, and be cheaper, but
personally speaking I wouldnt risk it to save a few quid.
But I'm a Toolmaker so I would say that LOL!!
ATB.
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 8:41 pm
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dbanberyPowerband Master Joined: 23 Feb 2007 Total posts: 542 Location: Cleckhuddersfax [Huddersfield] |
to be fair i think they will come out with another go with some sort of extraction device - as they have been soaking in releasing oil for the last few days.
i had a look too and there are peeps in brighouse that will do it. might give them a call.
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 8:51 pm
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NickIronsPowerband Master Location: Bienne Switzerland |
| dbanbery wrote: |
to be fair i think they will come out with another go with some sort of extraction device - as they have been soaking in releasing oil for the last few days.
i had a look too and there are peeps in brighouse that will do it. might give them a call. |
Why not mate, only the cost of a phone call at the end of the day.
I'd go with sparking personally as it's 100% But without seeing it
and getting hands on like you have, other options may be a
viable option, good luck with whatever way you go and don't forget
to post up the pics as the re-build progresses!!
ATB.
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:05 pm
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