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Post subject: Crank seals gone?
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Mortenp  Suburban Commuter Joined: 12 Apr 2008 Total posts: 66 Location: Drammen, Norway |
How can you tell if the crank seals are gone and done for? Is it possible to drive the bike at all? I took my 31k for a 3-kilometer drive and it suddenly it started to act up.. It just suddenly didn't want to run while in gear, but when I pulled the clutch it ran just fine..
I know, this is a lousy way of trying to explain the problem, but hasn't there been talk about bikes running fine on idle, but when in gear they die out?
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Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 11:09 pm
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Drewski Ace of Spades Joined: 29 Apr 2006 Total posts: 4893 Location: The Bunker,Cambridge, UK |
You can perform as pressure test on the bottom end but it's almost as simple to just replace the seal.
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 10:02 am
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fzrman Regular Racer Joined: 14 Feb 2004 Total posts: 493 Location: Hants |
what do you need to do a pressure test? i fancy seeing how bad mine is before stripping the motor
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 10:18 am
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| Rich |
Crank seals don't suddenly 'go'. I think you'd notice other symtoms if the crank seals were the cause. The left side seal will allow air to weaken the mixture so you'll notice the same symtoms as a weak mixture - hard starting, uneven idle that won't drop down when you close the throttle etc. If the primary side seal is leaking, you may also notice a drop in gearbox oil level and the exhaust will smell funny. The right pipe will smoke more. You may also get oil blowing from the breather on the back of the crankcase.
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 10:21 am
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abbey Find me a Road! Joined: 11 Jan 2008 Total posts: 16 |
it could be youir sidestand switch ae a gess disconect it and try runing the bike again
cheers
Mick
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 11:34 am
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DrewskiAce of Spades Joined: 29 Apr 2006 Total posts: 4893 Location: The Bunker,Cambridge, UK |
| fzrman wrote: |
| what do you need to do a pressure test? i fancy seeing how bad mine is before stripping the motor |
I've seen one done, (not on an LC), but never done one myself, if memory serves me well it means taking the barrels off and sticking an air tight blanking plate in their place. Try a google, should be something on the net.
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 12:05 pm
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DrewskiAce of Spades Joined: 29 Apr 2006 Total posts: 4893 Location: The Bunker,Cambridge, UK |
| abbey wrote: |
it could be youir sidestand switch ae a gess disconect it and try runing the bike again
cheers
Mick |
Could be wrong but I think that the way the switch works, you have to bypass it rather than just disconect it, if you just take it off, the bike won't run.
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 12:07 pm
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| xen-uno Joined: 27 Jul 2005 Total posts: 844 |
Leak down test: Pull the pipes/manifolds/reed-blocks off both cylinders and block off with plates. One intake plate will have a nipple or connector to put air in with ... the other intake plate will have a fitting to put a low scale pressure gauge on (0 - 10 psig scale). Use a bicycle pump and slowly pressurize to 7 psi or so (set crank so 1 piston is at TDC). Time the rate at which the pressure drops. 1 psig per min drop is pretty low leakage.
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 12:49 pm
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MortenpSuburban Commuter Joined: 12 Apr 2008 Total posts: 66 Location: Drammen, Norway |
Turned out I was out of petrol  The bike only stopped while going downhill when I came to think of it, so I filled it up and took it for a spin..No problems, the bike ran fine and it was so much fun! I had no idea how fast the RD was!!
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:14 pm
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