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replacement 4L0 clutch basket

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bryanbengalOffline
All-gear Wheelie!
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Joined: 03 Oct 2006
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Location: Eastwood, Essex
decided to replace with the PGM one, spoke to Johhny and he will thread the 4 holes to take m6 shallow screws so you can rebuild it the same way as the Mitaka billet ones.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k148/bryanbengal/DSCF1213.jpg
also comes with 8 new large cush drive rubbers and a tube of locktite too.


Post Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 3:26 pm
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BareOffline
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Brilliant! Err how much? for the pieces
What symptons were you experiencing that lead you to this?


Post Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 4:16 pm
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BillyOffline
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I'm a little retarded but is that a stock clutch that are modded with screws?

Nice mod if so, would be great to have so you can replace the rubbers easily. Very Happy


Post Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 10:07 pm
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p51bombayOffline
Joined: 23 Jan 2004
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Is that the PGM basket in the photo? Put up some pix of it next to the stocker (gear removed) and one of the inside of the gear.


Post Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 11:30 pm
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bryanbengalOffline
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is standard replacement for aircooled and LC, and is normaly supplied to be riveted. This has been taped and supplied with 6mm screws, the holes are normaly 4mm I think.
Total cost is £45 inc delivery.
Was replacing as my clutch is noisy after engine seize last year, I have already replaced both thrust washers and the center bush, but now doing the worn basket and friction plates as there was alot of play and groves in the basket where the plates sit, plus cush rubbers were worn.

will do pics for you Dennis.

I was told thet LC and YPVS wernt the same, but I have fitted it to a YPVS primary gear and it fits.


Post Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 11:45 pm
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BareOffline
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Ahh.. so the only difference from the Regular PGM unit is the tapping out of the rivet holes .. easy to DIY after purchase. Thank you
Was wondering how to properly squeeze the rivets on mine without owning a ten ton press.. Although in truth I've not had any adverse 'worn damper' symptoms, yet, other that the motor has now spun the OEM yama FZ friction discs.. a whole new adventure in frustration.
Screws are easier (like the Wiseco units) assuming they have the shear strength (imo Stainless migjht not be the best choice then.. not like regular hi strength steel is going to rust, ever )
Baskets seem identical to me.. Only the outer clutch face plate thing is different (Yvps has the adjustment screw centre)
Now I'm wondering IF I can now somehow manage to fit a Larger (8 plate) clutch. Now ..that.. would be an upgrade worth doing Rolling Eyes


Post Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:05 am
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bryanbengalOffline
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pics next to YPVS basket, as Ive already stripped 2 with damaged gear and basket to make 1 good one.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k148/bryanbengal/DSCF1216.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k148/bryanbengal/DSCF1217.jpg
and the YPVS primary gear with cush drive rubbers
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k148/bryanbengal/DSCF1215.jpg
I havnt stripped the LCs one yet but they are nearly the same.


Post Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:24 am
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bryanbengalOffline
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Bare wrote:
Ahh.. so the only difference from the Regular PGM unit is the tapping out of the rivet holes .. easy to DIY after purchase. Thank you
Was wondering how to properly squeeze the rivets on mine without owning a ten ton press.. Although in truth I've not had any adverse 'worn damper' symptoms, yet, other that the motor has now spun the OEM yama FZ friction discs.. a whole new adventure in frustration.
Screws are easier (like the Wiseco units) assuming they have the shear strength (imo Stainless migjht not be the best choice then.. not like regular hi strength steel is going to rust, ever )
Baskets seem identical to me.. Only the outer clutch face plate thing is different (Yvps has the adjustment screw centre)
Now I'm wondering IF I can now somehow manage to fit a Larger (8 plate) clutch. Now ..that.. would be an upgrade worth doing Rolling Eyes

Get Johnny to tap it b4 he posts it to you, let him do so you dont f**k it up. thumright
isnt that just a case of machineing the face of the inner basket so you can fit another friction and metal plate.


Post Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:27 am
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BareOffline
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Interesting photos There clearly is a visual difference , although in fairness although I have several LC clutches my valve one is back in use as of yesterday.. once full of discs they look the same, to me at least.
But now I know why there's no O ring on the Valvie clutch... don't you need the gasket between gear and basket onna LC ?

I discovered , to my chagrin, that with 8 plates, even using the thin 350 steel plates the Outer Basket itself is simply not deep enough to engage the last plates outer teeth .. no joy there.
Would also like to upgrade to steel end plates of clutch assly .. like later clutch packs, which also use spring dampers just like Car clutch plates do, no more rubber sausage slices. Eventually do-able, not easily though as even the clutch housing /outer case needs modding ( remove
and shift out that indented part where some innsert Plexi windows)
Only wishfull thinking at this stage tho.. all depends on ..if... my new FZ Ferodo friction discs and yama heavy steel plates hold up to the engine or not.
Your info /photos proved v usefull .. thank you..


Post Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 4:22 am
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DrewskiOffline
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I've just rolled out of bed and I'm probably looking at this all wrong but if you use bolts, won't the gear be tightened down onto the basket thus not being able to move Question

Nice to see a pic of between the two at last, allways wondered what they looked like.


Post Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 7:49 am
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bryanbengalOffline
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the rivets are pressed so will be tight too, however there is a sort of gasket between which would allow some movement.
Bare, you need to have the slots machined deeper in the outer basket to let the first plate sit further in, and I think the face of the pressure plate aswell.


Post Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 9:26 am
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p51bombayOffline
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What's the gasket look like? Is there one in the kit?


Post Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:50 pm
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